The Camino de Santiago

It has been quite a while since I have written a post and I feel like I have been in another world traveling the Camino de Santiago west from the French Pyrenees in the Basque Country to Galicia in the North West of Spain. Obviously this is not on the way South to Africa but it has been a journey that I have wanted to do for a very long time and a part of the world that I have been intrigued to visit.

The Camino is a pilgrimage route that began in the 9^th century after the apparent discovery of the tomb of Saint Jaque, or Tiago, or Jacob depending on where you from. He was an apostle of Christ who during his life time came to preach in the Galician peninsula and after being beheaded by the baddies of Rome his body returned to this part of the world on a boat with some of his disciples and friends. It’s a pretty wild tale that seems a little unlikely yet the faith and compassion that is born from the experience of the journey for so many leaves me with little interest in really questioning the truth of the myth itself. The journey became really popular in the middle ages and a whole series of stunning old churches, monasteries, hospitals and rest places have grown up along the route that takes you through all kinds of landscapes from stunning wild mountains, wide open dry plains, valleys and also now quite a lot of urban areas to. The route has become really popular again in recent years and feels very much alive with travellers from all over the world walking hundreds of miles to pay their respects to the tomb in the fantastic cathedral in Santiago itself.

I began the Camino proper in St Jean de Pied de Port at sunrise on a stunning misty morning. The road takes you up through beautifully wooded valleys high in to the mountains, over a pass and into Spain. It was so great to arrive here and leave France after so long of feeling quiet culturally starved and ripped off by expensive campsites full of old folks in ridiculously large camper vans. At last things are more affordable and there are plenty of other great folk travelling the road to hang out with. The journey of 777 km normally takes walkers about 35 days but on a bike it took 9 days on roads, tracks and footpaths, sleeping in pilgrim´s hostels and feasting on fine Spanish food and plenty cheap wine. Indeed a bottle of wine can cost the same as a bottle of mineral water, which incidentally is generally the same price as petrol which I have always thought was pretty bonkers.

Any way I soon hooked up with other cyclists along the way and by the time we arrived in Santiago we were a crew of 5 all kitted out in the full spandex cycling gear…. We love it! After days of riding the high ways, or rough tracks up and down mountains or through hundreds of miles of flat grain fields we would meet up and feast on the local foods and wine. Que Vida Rica! The rest of the crew were all Spanish lads so I´ve been getting into the lingo and having a whale of a time.

Arriving in the fantastic city of Santiago was an extremely powerful experience. We pulled into the square outside the epic cathedral as the bells struck midday to announce the daily Mass attended by thousands of devoted Christians and arriving Pilgrims. The service was incredibly emotional for so many people who have travelled hundreds or even thousands of miles to be there in the footsteps of so many before them for a thousand years. The Mass happens at this time every day and includes prayers,  readings and blessings with a full power climax involving the swinging of a huge incense burner billowing the sweet smoke of frankincense the full length of the Isle. This is accompanied by full-on dramatic organ music and the gasps and amazement of the congregation. The whole experience, empowered by such strong intentions and faith, leaves the entire congregation in a much heightened state. The cathedral itself is also full of magnificent imagery and ancient artworks that adds to the whole experience.  Together with the relief of completing such a journey that for many would have been pretty demanding, this makes for a very magical moment that I will always remember. The journey of pilgrimage offers deep insights into our own spiritual worlds and I am very grateful for the learning of this time on the Camino and for the companionship of my fellow Pilgrims. Of course the whole thing ended with more feasting and drinking in true Spanish style until some crazy hour of the morning

I hit 2000km on the road to Santiago which felt like quite an achievement but many more to go. 

It is time to head south again now, but this time through Portugal and then back into Spain to Seville and Andalucía to seek out some Flamenco in its true homelands down South.